“I couldn’t help but feel a sense of uncertainty as I stood at the corner of Cleveland and Elizabeth Streets in Surry Hills this afternoon, preparing to embark on one of those guided tours. Surveying the eclectic group that had gathered, my attention was immediately drawn to Terrance, our architect-cum-guide. Soon after, my gaze shifted to a young woman clad in a tracksuit, her arm laden with an impressive array of water bottles, and an apple wrapped in a crinkly plastic bag which she diligently munched on throughout our journey. Lastly, I couldn’t help but notice a middle-aged couple – he exuding a quiet, photographer’s aura, while she radiated an outgoing personality that seemed poised to voice opinions on any topic that arose. And indeed, she did not disappoint.
Our tour kicked off on Buckingham Street, Surry Hills, directly opposite an architectural firm that had taken root here back in the 1980s. However, the true purpose of our expedition lay in unraveling the complex tapestry of how various social and economic forces had shaped the neighborhood’s architecture since the time of European settlement.
After a concise introduction that delved into both the physical character of Surry Hills and the pivotal socio-economic influences, encompassing everything from its notorious slums and bustling factories to the creative designers and, with hushed tones, the LGBTQ+ community, we embarked on a meticulously planned two-hour odyssey.”
As we ventured further into the twentieth century, the influence of modernism began to draw a clear line of division within our group, separating those who favored functionalism from those who cherished decorative elements. Strangely enough, the woman known for her unwavering opinions held a vehement distaste for the old Dental Hospital (a structure I personally found quite remarkable), yet she held a particular fondness for the neighboring government towers, currently accommodating the RTA, The Weather Bureau, and various other entities.
During our journey, we learned that Surry Hills boasts a significant concentration of Sydney’s architects, with approximately a quarter of the city’s architectural firms calling this neighborhood home. Consequently, it’s not uncommon for these architects to reside nearby and display a willingness to experiment when it comes to their own homes.
We also encountered some intriguing structures during our exploration, such as the “Readers Digest” building, notable for its rooftop adorned with trees. And there was an unexpected surprise behind “The Clock Hotel.” If you’ve never ventured for a stroll in the vicinity of “The Clock,” I highly recommend it. You’ll be treated to a fascinating display of architectural ingenuity, where the designers deliberately crafted a weathered, aged appearance by permitting water to trickle down the concrete. This thoughtful design choice seamlessly integrates the building with the charming, modest homes of Surry Hills’ backyards.
Our tour concluded a bit later than scheduled, but it was a welcomed extension by all, as everyone thoroughly relished the experience. Our final destination was the St. Margaret’s Hospital complex on Bourke Street.
Terrance proved to be an exceptional guide, delivering his insights with a blend of honesty and unwavering passion. Surprisingly, the woman who initially seemed quite vociferous turned out to be genuinely warm-hearted. “Wouldn’t it be great if we could all gather again for another tour later this year?” she suggested. Well, I can’t say for sure about that, but based on the outstanding quality of this tour, I’ve certainly marked a few more of the Australian Architecture Association’s tours in my calendar.
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