“How old do you think she is?” I was asked tonight by a friend and colleague. “At least seventy”, I said, “I often see her riding her gopher (scooter) around the streets of Surry Hills”. “At first she seemed apprehensive when she was driving it on major roads, but now she seems quite confident”, I added.

We were chatting about the former Les Girls performer, Carmen who was giving a special performance at the Museum of Sydney. Martin and I were at the launch of a photographic exhibition called Up the Cross: Rennie Ellis & Wesley Stacey.

In opening the exhibition, the playwright Louis Nowra, who has lived in the cross for about twenty years, noted the commonality he had with the photographers: they were all from Melbourne. He observed that it’s often people who come from another place, who often see a city with different eyes, and who in turn end up loving it more than those born and bred. Some of the best writing about New York, he observed, is usually from people born in other parts of the world. It’s a thought which had some resonance for me, as spent the first 30 years of my life outside Sydney.

Legendary performer, Carmen at the Museum of Sydney
Legendary performer, Carmen at the Museum of Sydney

The biggest laugh he got was when spoke about the sex shops. “People would rather whack off at home in front of the internet than go to a strip joint, these days”, he joked. In a wonderfully eloquent speech, Nowra went on to talk about how much the cross had changed and yet had also remained the same. He spoke, for example, about the ongoing connection between rich and poor in the area, citing the example of a homeless man who lived outside his apartment, and the ongoing relationship people in his apartment block have with that man. He also located Kings Cross as a place where, for many years, you went to disappear or to discover your community. That said, he noted the Cross has changed with gentrification, and that many of the groups of people which made the cross interesting – the transexuals, the gays, the experimental artists and the working class base – had moved or expanded to other nearby suburbs including Newtown and Surry Hills.

I thought it was a really great exhibition, a real slice of life of a time when Kings Cross was a little different to what it’s like now, but still quite similar also. My favourite images included a wonderful panorama of Whisky Au Go Go, a celebrated nightclub and an image of a “nightclub MC”. “You won’t see sideburns like that anymore”, a woman said to me as we looked at the image together. The exhibition is highly recommended, dear reader. And finally, the answer to the question, “How old is Carmen?” Close to eighty, apparently…

9 responses to “Kings Cross Sydney”

  1. Andrew Avatar

    A drag living to that age must be a rare thing. Wish I could see the Rennie Ellis exhibition. There has been one exhibition here.

  2. M-H Avatar

    I found the linked article a bit confusing – she was the first kiwi man to come out? I don’t think so! I suppose it depends on wheat you mean by ‘coming out’. She may have been the first drag queen in NZ to allow herself to become a public icon.

    I remember going to her her club in Wellington when I was at Uni in the late 60s and early 70s, and I well remember when she stood for Mayor. My mother was horrified! She was at an event I attended in Wellington in about 1988, which would the last time I’ve seen her close up – I’ve seen her in the Mardi Gras parade, of course. She is an amazing old survivor, that’s for sure. I love the idea of her on a scooter.

  3. jack Avatar
    jack

    Cool to see a photo of Carmen – I lived in the cross late 70’s early 80’s and Carmen was always strutting about at night – trying to remember some of the other Kiwi drag queens of the time – they were a hoot – there were three that hung out at the Venus room that we called the pointer sisters they were great times – also remember watching a queen called Theresa Green who was great on Oxford Street – a bit before her time Theresa.

  4. dona Avatar
    dona

    i was a street kid my home become the alamain fountain. after approaching the wayside chapel for help. i remember carmen, terry, monique, carlotta. after a certain time of night, la girl’s would entertain the carasel night club patrons. the dance floor become there stage. those day’s the cross was classy, magic… electric. never again. james obrien as in abc radio?. you have interveiwed me before if so.

    1. James O'Brien Avatar

      Hi…. yes… and gosh that was a long time ago :)

  5. amie Avatar
    amie

    Where exactly was the whiskey a go go? I remember my dad saying he used to work as a bouncer there and I want to check it out.

    cheers.

  6. Rosslynne Gibbons Avatar
    Rosslynne Gibbons

    Whiskey a go-go was in William Street on the right hand side of the road if you are walking down from the Coke sign. It was bombed in themid to late 70’s, , I think a bomb was put in the garbage outside, that was the end of that.

  7. Rosslynne Gibbons Avatar
    Rosslynne Gibbons

    Sadly, Carmen passed away at the end of last year

  8. James O'Brien Avatar

    Thanks Rosslynne for the info about the location. When Carmen died last year I wrote another post http://jamesobrien.id.au/2011/12/17/vale-carmen-rupe/ pointing to some fantastic photographs taken by Daniel Boud.

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