Stockholm Bucketlist Friday

It’s hard to believe it, but today was my last full day in Stockholm. With my departure looming, I woke up with a clear mission: it was time to tick off those final bucket-list items that have been lingering on my mind.

I decided to head back out to the archipelago—specifically to Vaxholm. I’ve been here once before during the summer when it’s a bustling, sun-drenched holiday resort. Winter tells a different story. The crowds are thinner, but the ferry was still surprisingly lively. I found myself surrounded by a mix of French and Italian travellers, along with plenty of Swedes heading out for a Friday escape.

This is not a TV screen, it’s the view of the snow and ice from the front window.

The journey takes about 80 to 90 minutes. I’ll admit, I was crossing my fingers for a sea of thick, dramatic ice, but nature had other plans. While there wasn’t as much as I’d hoped for, there was still enough to satisfy the soul, especially as we pulled into Vaxholm. I even managed to snag a short video of an icebreaker working alongside our ferry.

The ferry was completely covered by my weekly transit pass—no extra cost at all, which is always a win for the travel budget. I settled in for a light lunch at the Vaxholm Hotel, right opposite the quay. There’s something incredibly peaceful about a Friday lunch overlooking the frozen water (or at least, the “slushy” water) with a few locals enjoying the view.

As I sat on the bus and train today, I found myself drifting off and wondering about the automated voices you hear on public transport. I ended up discovering a really clever piece of Swedish engineering. It turns out that northbound trains are announced by a female voice, while southbound trains are announced by a male voice. It’s a unique system designed to help commuters with visual impairments know exactly which side of the platform to stand on just by listening to the gender of the voice. It’s such a simple, thoughtful touch that makes the city that much more accessible.

Back in the city this afternoon, I finally tackled something I’ve wanted to do for ages: a traditional Swedish sauna (or bastu). I’ve done the baths in Iceland and Japan, but never the local experience here. I headed to the swimming hall at Medborgarplatsen.

As an amputee, navigating these spaces can sometimes be a bit of a logistical puzzle. At the entrance, there’s a strict “shoes off” rule before you even reach the changing rooms. I had to explain to the staff that my prosthetic limb and shoe are a package deal! They were great about it, though—they gave me these blue plastic covers (very IKEA-esque) to keep the grit off the floors.

After a relaxing 25-metre lap swim, I hit the sauna. It’s a very different vibe from Australia. It’s incredibly family-oriented; fathers and sons all relaxing together, which felt very natural and wholesome. I did have a sweet moment with a little girl who was absolutely transfixed by my prosthetic. Her father was a bit apologetic, but I told him it was no worry at all.

I finished the evening with a quiet glass of wine at a local bar before retreating to the hostel.

To be honest, these past couple of weeks have been a whirlwind. I’ve had to remind myself that things are a bit different now than they were during my last visit nine years ago. Between the amputation and the slippery winter streets, I move a little slower than I used to. I haven’t ticked off every single thing I imagined, but I’ve learned to be okay with that. Travel isn’t just about the volume of sights; it’s about the quality of the moments.

Tomorrow, I’m jumping on a four-hour train north to Sundsvall. It’s Melodifestivalen Heat 5 weekend (the massive Swedish lead-up to Eurovision), so the energy in the country is going to be electric.


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The Limb Shift (podcast)

James O'Brien

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