There is something very special about the laneways of Surry Hills, a feeling that the bricks themselves hold onto the echoes of those who once walked them. If you have ever read the books of Ruth Park, you will know these narrow passages are steeped in a deep, often gritty history. Even in my own time here—about 30 years now—I have seen so many changes, watching the suburb evolve from those shadows into the vibrant, modern hip hub it is today.
On the weekend, I found myself standing with a group of others in a small laneway near home for a memorial tribute to a local woman, Irena Dobrijevich. It was a moment of quiet reflection in a suburb that is constantly shifting, yet deeply anchored by the ghosts of its past.
My memories of Irena stretch back long before her time as a local icon here. I first knew her from her time at the Lismore Regional Art Gallery, but it was her arrival on Crown Street that truly cemented her legend in my mind.
I can still see it clearly: the day she opened her art gallery (next to the Trinity Hotel), marked by the surreal and magnificent sight of a “Lady Godiva” arriving on horseback, effectively closing off part of Crown Street. We think it was another local legend, Madame Lash on the horse!
Lady Godiva on Crown Street Surry Hills in 2005
Years later, I was part of a small group of people recording local stories, and she was one of them. She spoke with such clarity about the challenges and joys of this locality. In her own words, she noted the evolving soul of the neighbourhood:
“The joy of being here is the diversity of people… but the challenge is that as the locality changes, we must ensure we don’t lose that history that makes us who we are.”
There was another moment recently I also found particularly poignant. I spotted a young man in full Sydney Swans gear being photographed with the Adam Goodes mural on Fitzroy Street. Seeing that interaction—the reverence for a man like Adam—touched me deeply. Goodes represents a strength and integrity that resonates far beyond the football field; he is a reminder of the ongoing journey toward reconciliation and respect in this country. I can only assume the young man recently signed with the Swans, as there was a group of people supporting him, taking photographs.
Also recently, a family member from Lismore came to visit, and I decided to take her on a “Murders Most Foul” walking tour. https://murdersmostfoul.com/ Our guide, Elliott, reminded me that I was actually one of the very first people to do one of his tours when he started out—and that was 10 years ago. Time flies.
We wandered past the sites of old notoriety, including the story of the local sex worker whose history is woven into the darker fabric of the suburb. Between the tribute in the laneway, the memories of Irena’s Godiva, and the modern-day respect for figures like Goodes, it’s clear that Surry Hills remains a place where every corner has a story, and every story is worth keeping alive.
I had forgotten about Ruth Park books. I should reread them. There might be competitors, but it must be close to being the most interesting area of the inner suburbs.
I had forgotten about Ruth Park books. I should reread them. There might be competitors, but it must be close to being the most interesting area of the inner suburbs.
I actually have some DVDs of the movies also, though I’m not sure if I can still play a DVD!!