Lessons learned from my amputee trip to China, thoughts on the plane

Two years ago, I had returned from an overseas holiday with a severe infection that led to the amputation of my lower right leg. To mark the second anniversary, I decided it was time to prove to myself that my travelling days were not over.

I chose China for a number of reasons. A super-cheap travel deal was the main driver, but it was also the appeal of visiting somewhere familiar. I had been to China twice before and felt I knew what I was getting myself in for, at least in terms of the physical challenges.

The decision to join a group tour as a single person, however, weighed heavily on my mind. I didn’t want to be a burden or, worse, a subject of pity. I worried about spoiling their holiday if I fell over—a real concern, as only a few months prior, a fall had resulted in a broken hip and a complete replacement. In the end, I made a pact with myself: I would only go if I felt absolute confidence in my ability to travel independently. Right up until a couple of days before the flight, I still had my doubts.

My prosthetic limb certainly attracted some interest during the trip. On one occasion, an older woman stopped dead in her tracks, pointing at my leg in shock. I just smiled back and offered a platitude about how well it works. In the entire week I spent exploring cities and towns, I was the only visibly noticeable amputee I saw. It reminded me of a trip to a rural town 15 years earlier when I had seen a man without legs begging on a footpath. That’s not to say there are no amputees in China; they just weren’t visible in the same way.

The tour itself presented the challenges I had anticipated. The cobblestone streets and the sheer distances were demanding. On the day we visited Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City, our group clocked up 18,000 steps. In amputee terms, you can probably double that for the amount of additional effort involved. The two older women on the tour wisely hired a wheelchair and an assistant for the day, which cost them about $80. They assured me it was worth it, and as I struggled with the distance and the heat, I wondered if I shouldn’t have been so stupidly independent and joined them.

A visit to the Great Wall was always going to be a test. I had climbed it twice before in my youth, scaling the heights with friends. This time, I could only manage a few steps up the steep, cobbled incline. “It’s not so bad,” I told a young man from Tasmania who congratulated me on making it that far. “You see a lot more when you take it slowly.”

There was only one day when I really struggled. It was raining, making surfaces slippery, and we had to get on and off boats with a distinct lack of handrails. But throughout the trip, the 41-person tour group was a source of incredible support. Members would often offer assistance, not from a place of pity, but genuine kindness. Though I mostly declined with a “thank you, I need to do it myself,” there were a few moments when a helping hand was a welcome relief, and I smiled with a simple, “Thanks, that would be lovely.” They were a great group of people.

This sense of camaraderie culminated on our second-last night. On the bus, one of the participants led an extended chorus of the Slim Dusty song “Duncan,” with personalised verses for everyone on the tour. When my turn came, I told them with a smile, “It’s okay to change ‘he never gets rolling drunk’ to ‘he never gets legless drunk’.” The bus erupted in laughter.

The institutional challenges, however, continued right up to the end. There was a moment, as I waited for the wheelchair to depart from Hangzhou Airport, that I had to laugh at the bureaucracy. Even though I had pre-arranged assistance, there was an added layer of paperwork to fill in and an additional counter to visit.

It’s worth noting that wheelchair assistance in China is nowhere near as common as in Australia. Back home, it’s a regular sight to see people being assisted through airports. In China, while the staff were wonderfully helpful, they did seem a little unprepared for the logistics. On one flight, a single staff member impressively pushed two separate wheelchairs at once. On another, I was initially assigned one person, but two others soon arrived to help. Despite the institutional differences, the support I received was great. During one of these transfers, an attendant politely asked if the man pushing my chair could have a photograph with me. Perhaps I looked like a famous celebrity instead of an old white guy from Australia? Of course, I agreed and, in return, asked for a photo with them as well.

After the delays at Hangzhou, I breezed through customs and security for my flight home. The journey ended with one last, unexpected hurdle upon arrival back at Sydney Airport. I was “randomly” selected for a full quarantine screening, which slowed down the otherwise speedy process. The one upside to this final delay was getting to meet a very diligent sniffer dog named Emma, who gave my bags a thorough, but ultimately approved, inspection.

Though it was a great trip, it’s great to be back home nonetheless. There’s no place like your own bed. The only downside? After a week or so in the northern summer, it’s freezing back in Sydney!!

Post Script

I shared a few of my experiences on the Facebook group, TripaDeal China Family and therse were some of the responses to my observations and tips about travelling with a disability.

“I found the tour amazing with my mobility challenges. Tripadeal contacted the guide company who were happy to accommodate my small lightweight scooter.”

“Love reading about your experience. Everyone seems to be saying the same thing about tour groups helping each other. I’ve booked my first trip for October.”

“Thanks. I’m concerned about being too slow (old army injury can slow me down when I’m getting weary) and hearing this makes me a bit more comfortable!! We leave Monday, cannot wait!!!”

“Thank you for sharing your experience. I also took all assistance I could when we did our trip in 2023. Wheelchairs at Airports, at various attractions etc. I also took a walking stick which could easily be converted into a seat, and therefore was able to sit for short periods instead of standing. Our Guides were fantastic and very helpful, and so were the members of the Group we were travelling with. It is challenging, however, with a bit of planning it is absolutely doable.”

“We both have mobility issues. Hubby took a small fold-up seat and I took a hiking stick. Also, we had excellent members in our group who helped us with our mobility issues like helping me up and down stairs.”

“Hi, what a great post! Practical advice and with a positive can-do attitude. You should do blogs for travellers in the same situation, as some may be afraid to venture out. Well done.”

“I love this post – so glad you got to enjoy China despite your disability. I look forward to reading more of your travels and how you navigate things.”