Fan Popo - New Beijing New Marriage

Stockholm Pride – Chinese Queer Film

Sadly, my “Swedish” is not sophisticated enough to understand the complexities of some of the discussions you might encounter at an event like Stockholm Pride. While it won’t be too much of an issue at events like the Schlagerkväll (the pop music night), I’m still very interested in going to talks and events, especially since Stockholm Pride usually has a very “global” outlook. I remember a few years ago there was a talk given about LGBTQI rights in Australia, for example. So I spent half an hour or so on the weekend scouring the program for events and talks that were likely to be in English.

The first event I came across was not only in English, it was also an issue which I have a really strong personal interest in. The event, “Rainbow in the night: Chinese queer film making” was a forty minute talk by a 30-something film-maker from Beijing called Fan Popo.

He began the event by screening about ten minutes of a documentary film, “New Beijing, New Marriage”, he made about gay and lesbian weddings in Beijing and the public reaction to them. Within twenty seconds, I realised I’d seen the film before, two years ago, as part of the exhibition “Secret Love” at the Östasiatiska museet (East Asian Art Museum) on Skeppsholmen, here in Stockholm. It was lovely to be “taken back” and to remember that wonderful exhibition which I wrote about at the time:

One of the most impressive works for me is a four panel work called “Hello Comrades” which one the surface, purports to show just lots of faces involved involved in similar pursuits including construction, the military, and playing ping-pong. When you look more closely, however, there are obviously homosexual images. The same “hidden” depiction is also found in a series of paper cuts in a dark room which only become apparent when light is shined on them. Most memorably, there’s a video work which depicts a demonstration of and public reaction to same sex couples seeking to be married.

Fan Popo then went on to talk about some of the other documentaries he has made. “Most people like to see documentaries at the moment, because they want stories about real people”, he explained to the audience of maybe 60 people, when asked the question about making documentaries versus fiction.

I was the first person to ask a question. “Having heard so much about your experiences in Beijing, can you explain what it’s like in Shanghai and other places?”, I asked. He explained that because Beijing is the seat of political power, that’s where most of the LGBTQI activist groups are based. “I had a boyfriend in Shanghai so I know a bit about life there too”, he explained, saying the scene in Shanghai is far more “commercial”. He went on to say he hoped Shanghai might become a little more “activist”.

There were also questions about what life was like outside the larger centres, about distributing information via social media, and the degree to which trans people are recognised in China, and portrayed in films.

The talk was really interesting and well appreciated, and he spoke about his life and work with both a passion and a wonderful sense of humour.

Chinese Bible by Yang Zhichao

Chinese Bible

I think pretty much everyone in the room laughed in recognition, as Gene Sherman told the story about the promise she and her husband had made to each other. As she noted they had been married forty-seven years, and were a family that “kept promises”, she went on to say they had agreed and promised to stop purchasing art. As they approach their 70s, they realised they had close to 900 works at various locations around Sydney, and that was probably enough for them to handle. Visiting Hong Kong, however, she came across the work “Chinese Bible” by Yang Zhichao, declaring it today “the greatest work in our collection”.

And what a purchase! A collection of about 3,000 personal diaries from the time of China’s Cultural Revolution, currently on display at Sydney’s Sherman Gallery. Dr Geremie Barme from the Australian National University (who opened today’s exhibition) said the diary entries range from shopping lists to “careful thoughts”. He also noted it was often a practice during those years for people to burn their diaries, mindful they might fall into the hands of the authorities.

As you enter the gallery, you’re immediately overwhelmed by the scale of the artwork. It took three days to lay them out carefully in order on specially prepared plinths, we were told today. And then you look more closely at the works, the beautiful covers, and wonder what’s inside. Twenty five of the diaries have been translated into English, which you can read them on computers at the back of the gallery.

For me, this blog is like a diary, though nowhere as personal as something I might have written by hand and without thinking there would be a broader audience, preferring to keep my “darker thoughts” to myself. As I wandered home I thought about my own childhood diaries where I did just that. Sadly, they were washed away in the big Lismore flood of the late 1980s.

Tour Group in Tiananmen Square, Beijing

Nexus Holidays China Sampler

BACKGROUND: When my friend Sue first spotted the “Nexus Holidays China Sampler” late last year, we both thought it sounded “too good to be true”. For about the cost of a return flight from Sydney to Beijing (about $1200-$1300), the sampler price also included an internal flight from Beijing to Shanghai, accommodation in “five star hotels”, about three quarters of the meals, tour guide support, and entry to lots of major tourist attractions. That it was previously advertised at close to $3000, and was now being offered (through Living Social) at a much lower price, made it sound even more extraordinary. After consideration of the uncertainties we decided we would go ahead and book anyway, deciding to pay an extra $400 for single accommodation instead of the twin-share. Right up until the last couple of weeks before travelling, we still couldn’t quite believe the generousness of the deal.

The last time I was in China (I mean, the first time I was in China, which was in 2010), I visited my friend Kate who was living here pretty much permanently. She was working at an art gallery there, and had an apartment in a building a very non-western part of Beijing. She invited me to come to visit and so of course I said yes. Being with someone who had spent a bit of time there, and who had developed a network of contacts and friends (mostly among expats) meant that I was able to go a little deeper more quickly into life in Beijing than the average tourist on a package deal, which is what I did on the China Sampler. I got to do some amazing things and really treasure the memories of that trip in 2010. It’s one of those holidays where I can pretty much recall everything that happened on every day, and the way I felt about my experiences. But this time around, being on a tour group and the experience was different. Not better, not worse. Just different. On the positive, I probably received a little more of the “educational backgrounder” than I’d enjoyed previously. On the negative, there were moments when I wished for something a little less “touristy”.

FLIGHTS WITH CHINA EASTERN: I was pleasantly surprised with the flights, since I’d read some pretty average reviews of China Eastern. People who write things like “the worst airline ever” without an explanation are wasting their time and mine. And those who fly budget but expect first class are just dreamin’. But having applied those filters I still want expecting much. China Eastern surprised me. We flew from Sydney to Shanghai on an A330: modern aircraft, good but not great entertainment system and plenty of leg room. The leg room was further enhanced by having scored four seats in the centre row between only two of us.

ACCOMMODATION: The accommodation was excellent. It was genuinely in the range of four to five star throughout, with large rooms and good facilities. The only negative from my perspective was the accommodation in Beijing was quite some distance away, some thirty to forty-five minutes from the centre of town, which meant by the end of the day, we were much pretty much stranded. In all the other cities, however, we were close to town.

TOUR GUIDES: Throughout the tour we had a “national guide” and a local guide in each of the cities we visited (Beijing, Suzhou, Wuxi, Hangzhou and Shanghai). They were all knowledgeable, friendly, and all spoke reasonably good English, and often with an unexpected sophistication.

TOURIST ATTRACTIONS: We visited all of the “key” tourist attractions including Tiananmen Square, The Imperial Palace, The Summer Palace and The Great Wall of China, as well as lots of smaller attractions including The Lingering Garden which I’d never heard of before. Of all the attractions, the only one which disappointed my slightly was our visit to The Great Wall. I’d visited what I thought was a more attractive, more interesting part of the wall when I visited in 2010, whereas our visit on this occasion was to a very touristy, very busy part of the wall. Everyone else enjoyed it, though.

SHOPPING EXCURSIONS: An important part of the tour is a number of “shopping expeditions” which, I’m sure, go some way to subsidising the overall costs. These expeditions included visits to a Chinese medicine facility, a tea factory, jade factory, a silk factory, and a copper art factory. As I don’t have the “shopping gene” these were the parts of the trip which I found least interesting. These were the parts of the tour most likely to divide the men and the women of our group. Even if the blokes weren’t all that interested in the finished product, there was still something about manufacturing which was enough to keep the men interested. There were times when I (and others) thought too much was allowed for these shopping adventures. Others, however, really enjoyed these parts of the trip, and many people spent a lot of money. One couple, for example, bought $7000 worth of Chinese medicine products. A few other members of the tour group later seemed to suffer “shoppers regret”, as soon after they made their purchases, they realised they’d incorrectly calculated the exchange rate.

OPTIONAL EXTRAS: Throughout the tour there were quite a few optional extras to the program, which included light shows, an acrobatics show, a hot pot dinner, a visit to the hutongs, and yum cha lunch to name but a few. While many people had paid for all of the optional extras, Sue and I took them on a case by case basis.

FOOD: About two-thirds to three quarters of all meals were included in the price, including breakfast every day and usually one or two further meals. I’m a little more adventurous in my taste in food than were most of the other people on the tour, and so I was sometimes a little disappointed with the food. That said, other people on the tour found it all a little more challenging than they were used to. There was a general agreement, however, food servings were very, very generous.

TOILETS: Although squat toilets are the norm in China, they posed a few “challenges” for the female members of our tour group, particularly the older ones. Most of the time, however, our tour guides provided good advice about which toilets were more “western” in style. To overcome our uneasiness about squat toilets, Sue and I adopted a routine of going to the bathroom for a number two each morning at the hotel.

OVERALL: Going on a tour group is, by its very nature, about individual compromise. Our group ranged in age from late 20s to late 70s, with most of the group aged 50-65, so there was room for a lot of different interests based on age alone. You need to go on a tour accepting there will some things you will enjoy, some things you won’t, some people you will like, some people you won’t. Life is about compromise. Sue and I were discussing this on the bus at one point, noting we would have found it difficult to have done so many of the things we had if we had travelled by ourselves. “We could have hired a driver and guide”, I said to Sue, but balanced that by noting it would have been more expensive to have done so, and then on top of that, there would have been all of the additional costs (including entry prices, accommodation and flights) which are all covered as part of this tour. Overall, I thought the trip was excellent value and would highly recommend it to others if the offer comes up again.

If you want more detail on what happened day by day, have a look at some of my China Posts


China – Shanghai

There was a moment today when the guy sitting behind me, Paul, said “You know I think I wouldn’t mind living in Shanghai for a year of two”. Without hesitation, I told him I’d thought the same thing earlier in the day. It’s odd, of course, because we’d only been in the city for less than twenty-four hours. Thinking logically about it, it’s probably because of the familiarity of the place. it’s the most “Western” city we’ve visited so far. It’s also reminded me a lot of Sydney. Maybe it’s also the fact that it’s a city based around water that gives the place such a good energy. Obviously we were both jumping to premature conclusions, but one thing I am sure of : I’d like to come back and visit the city again. Maybe for the next International Art Fair?

The organised parts of today’s tour included a trip to the airport and back on the high speed train (reaching 430km/h), a visit to a clothing and electronics market (where I bought a really nice winter jacket at a really good price), a visit to Shanghai Bund, a walk around the city, and a night-time cruise.

“So that’s where all of our coal goes?”, I joked to Sue, as we reflected on the bright city lights of Shanghai. City lights in Sydney (and most other cities) are normally a dull affair of corporate logos and simple colours. In contrast, the city lights of Shanghai are bright, colourful and imaginative. There was a real sense of theatre and occasion, I thought to myself, as we travelled around the harbour.

For the additional cost of 50 Yuan (about $9-10) we paid for “VIP Seating” which meant we got to sit outdoors in a less crowded part of the boat, and an orange juice was even thrown in. Sadly, there was no white wine, so I settled for a beer. Indeed, there’s been an almost complete absence of white wine on the entire trip. In fact, I had an experience the other day which reminded me very much of an episode of The Simpsons. It’s the one where The Simpsons travel to Australia, and was when Marj went into a bar and tried to order a coffee. The barman replied “beer”. The exchange continued between them where Marj kept saying “coffee” (even spelling it out) and the barman replied “beer”. The other day I tried to order a glass of wine in a hotel bar, and a similar exchange ensued.

As we ended the day there was a little bit of sadness in the group, as eight of us (including Sue and I) are ending the trip tomorrow and returning home, while the others are continuing on a four day river trip. “I know I’ll see you in the morning, but I’d still like to give you a hug tonight”, a woman from Adelaide called Carrie said to me, as we entered the hotel lift. There have been some really nice people on the bus with whom we’ve shared some wonderful moments of insight and humour.


China – Tea Plantation

I learned more today about green tea than I have my entire life. Our day started with a visit to a nearby village of Mei Jia Wu, where they seem to grow nothing but tea. Amongst the things I learned included: how the different size of tea leaves produce different flavours; how the spring harvest is considered the best; how you can usually get five cups of green tea using the same leaves, how you should drink black tea in the morning, and how you should drink green tea about half an hour AFTER eating your lunch and dinner to assist in fat absorption.

Until the “big sell” and “shopping frenzy” came at the end of the demonstration I was inclined to say this was the most interesting visit we had made to a factory/retail outlet on the trip. I’m not one for jewellery and silk, and I’m generally not one for shopping (unlike many others on the tour), but I really enjoyed visiting the village, and in particular, taking a walk out into the tea plantations themselves.

The major part of the day involved a three-hour (or so) bus trip to Shanghai where I slept on and off and listened to some music and to some podcasts.

We arrived with just enough time to spend an hour or so walking around the Shanghai Museum which I enjoyed very much. “Some of you might not like museums” our tour guide Helen said at one point, to which I softly responded with a smile, “Some of us don’t like shopping”. The two most interesting exhibitions for me were the one which featured some of the traditional clothing of some the ethnic minorities, and the one which featured some fantastic sculptures.

Throughout the tour there have been a few optional extras to the programs where Sue and I have been the odd ones out. While almost everyone else attended, neither of us have had much of an interest , for example, in attending light and sound shows by the bloke responsible for the Beijing Olympics Opening Ceremony. Tonight I was the only one in our group who elected not to go to the acrobatics show. Sue went along, and I’m sure she enjoyed it, but, as I explained to everyone, “acrobatics are not my thing, I would have preferred a few more hours at the museum”.

So I came to the hotel early and booked in. Wow, what a fantastic room I have. It’s something like 60 square metres, has fantastic views, has a fantastic bathroom (with separate spaces for shower and toilet, and with a TV over the bathtub), and is probably the best hotel accommodation I’ve stayed in. Realising the comfort level, I thought to myself, “I’m in the the night”. I did wander out for a while though to buy a shirt, I had a swim, and paid a brief visit to a bar called “Eddy’s Bar” which was nice, and where I got chatting to a couple of locals.

One of the blokes I chatted to was called “Kevin” who told me he was moving to Australia later in the year and that he’d just “passed the test”. One of the interesting things about young Chinese men and women is their adoption of “Western Names”. That is, they “choose” a name to be known by. I didn’t dare ask if he named himself after our former Mandarin-speaking Prime Minister. I thought it was a question best left unasked.


China – Shopping and Travel

Earlier in the trip I wrote about how the “shopping parts” of the tour were the ones most likely to divide the men and the women of our group, including the jade factory, the silk factory, and the copper art works. But even if the blokes weren’t all that interested in the finished product, there was still something about manufacturing which was enough to keep the men interested. That wasn’t the case at today’s visit to the pearl factory. Once the oyster shell had been opened and we had seen the contents, the eyes of virtually every bloke in the room glazed over.

A few of us were outside as quickly as we could be, having feigned an interest for a suitable period of time. I walked with a couple of blokes around the corner where we stood and watched a television commercial being filmed. The only thing we know about what was happening was that it was a television commercial, with absolutely no idea what it was about. All we saw was a couple of people in white lab coats standing outside an environmental monitoring agency truck, and with a young girl on a bicycle riding past saying “hi”. I don’t think we made it into any of the shots, but you never know.

After the pearl factory, we visited a nearby wetland (which was lovely) and even got to hang out with a handful of locals practising their ballroom dancing.

An hour or so later and we were in Hangzhou, where we took a cruise around the lake and visited the really lovely nearby park.


China – Shopping Day

Partly by design, and partly by chance, this ended up as a “shopping day”. The planned part was a visit to a “silk worm factory” in Suzhou. And when I say “factory”, I really mean showroom. The unexpected shopping expedition was when we went looking later in the afternoon for somewhere to have my haircut and my beard trimmed.

The visit to “Silkworld” was another part of the tour “compromise” I wrote about the other day. In exchange for heavily subsidised travel, food and accommodation, each day we’ve paid a visit to an attraction where it’s assumed we’ll all make a few significant purchases. As with some of the other attractions, some people have spent a LOT of money, while others have spent very little. The visit to “Silkworld” was another occasion where the women of the group have been deeply interested, while the men of the group have shown little interest, lurking around on the fringes. I actually did buy a scarf, the kind of scarf I’ve been trying to find for some time, and, as it was at a good price, I was more than happy. A few other members of the tour group suffered “shoppers regret” soon after they made their purchases, when they’d incorrectly calculated the exchange rate. There was a general feeling in the group too much time had been allocated to this factory visit.

After lunch we travelled to nearby Wuxi, and have pretty much had free time since arriving. Sue and I went for a walk down the street later in the afternoon in search of a haircut and beard trim. Thanks to Google Translate I was able to organise a really good haircut. There’s nothing terribly complicated about my haircut and beard trim (aside from the length) which is a good thing. But I have to see Google Translate has been incredibly helpful throughout the day, including with our next purchases.

Feeling satisfied with my haircut, we wandered another block down the street to a small suburban shopping centre. I’ve been thinking about purchasing some new frames for glasses for some time, so on a whim, we wandered over to the local optometrist and tried on a few pairs. You can imagine our surprise when we discovered the already heavily discounted frames were actually half price. Hence I bought a couple of pairs of frames I really liked, and when I return to Sydney I’ll take them along to my optometrist to see what can be done with them.

Earlier this evening the tour group had some further free-time, and so we wandered around the main tourist district of the city where there were lots of restaurants, lots of bars, lots of live musicians and live karaoke. As we left, I noticed there was still a large contingent of the tour group downing a beer or two at a local brewery. I sense there’ll be a few hangovers tomorrow morning.